I spent 12-23 July on my bike, traversing Britain from Lands End to John O'Groats. This is quite likely to be a long post, because in addition to telling a bit of a story about my journey, I'm aiming to share as much useful info as I can for others who come across this post as they research doing their own End-to-End trip.
The Route
My route was the Cycle Touring Club's (OTC's) B&B route. The directions are tweaked and updated over time, so best to download the most recent CTC Pack. This will give you text directions which I found invaluable. The route uses primarily lanes rather than A or B routes. This keeps you away from the fastest moving traffic, but it requires close attention to navigation as you cycle, as it can be easy to miss important turns.
I used the directions to plot my route on the map. Your choice of daily start and end points will depend on how long you're taking and whether you want any breaks along the way. I did it with 12 cycling days and no breaks. This works out to about 85 miles per day.
If you have Google Earth, you can download my route in this kmz file. All twelve segments are together in one folder, which is the best way to organise them when you import them as well.
Those without Google Earth can use this set of links to view each leg in turn:
Market Drayton to Bashall Eaves
Bashall Eaves to Castle Carrock
Castle Carrock to Innerleithen
For use on the road, I marked up an A3 road atlas with the route and took with me only the necessary pages. No use buying and carrying loads of OS maps or an entire atlas. Each night before going to sleep, I would review the combination of the CTC text instructions and the map to familiarise myself with the next day's route.
Diary
11 July - got the bike ready and took an MPV mini-cab to Paddington to catch the 2345 sleeper service to Penzance. I was able to get my bike secured in the guard's van (a worry for me, as I'm not familiar with traveling with a bike) with no problems and actually was in my private cabin by 2300 and off to sleep before we even pulled out of the station. By the way, you can check about how to take your bike on the railways with this pdf.
12 July - Penzance to Lands End & Lands End to Bude
Miles cycled - 110
Feet climbed - 8280
Hours cycling - 9
Average speed excluding stops - 14 mph
Missed turns - at least 4
Irate motorists - 0 (I'll tell you now that I encountered none on whole trip)
Croissants for breakfasts - 3
Bottom comfort factor - 9
Brufen taken - 2 (I took 2 every day at lunch to combat knee pain and general aches)
Continental breakfast brought to me in my sleeper cabin, then a top up of two croissants in Penzance station before setting off at 0820. Smooth 10-mile ride to Lands End for the obligatory picture, etc. Met 3 other End-to-Enders, who who taking a more southerly route together across Cornwall and Devon.
Embarked properly on the End-to-End at 0920 and promptly missed a turn on the (different) route to Penzance. Altered route and avoided losing any time or distance. Navigation went more smoothly to Truro, where I stopped for a sandwich lunch, sitting in an outdoor area under the glare of a waiter from a competing restaurant, who felt that his placing a menu at the table meant I couldn't sit there.
Tricky afternoon, as I had a hard time finding the right lane leading out of Truro. I also discovered a computational error in the CTC directions that meant they had under-estimated the distance to Bude by 3.5 miles - a psychological blow. Missed a turn between Truro and Wadebridge that cost me 2 more miles.
Reached nadir in Boscastle and Tintagel (beautiful in their own right) where sugar low and de-hydration caught up with me. A break, snack, drink and couple of brufen helped. In the final push to Bude, I made a route adjustment to take the A39 vs. the scheduled coastal road. It saved me a number of miles, at the cost of riding on a fast, busy road.
Arriving in Bude (a nice little town), I found the guest house quickly. The owners didn't turn me away despite my filthy head/face (including two dried dead bugs plastered to my forehead). A shower, some stretching and two cups of tea returned me to the world of the living. Washed socks and base layer (radiator kindly on for drying).
1/2 lb. cheeseburger and chips to refill the tank, and as my wee was DARK yellow, sipping water throughout evening and night to re-hydrate.
Had to make repeated adjustments to tighten my seat-post rack through the day. I think I've got it properly ratcheted in now, so I hope not to have to faff with that anymore.
Overall, I suffered more than I expected. The incessant up and down was taxing, especially as the steepness of the ascents was more than my non-touring bike is meant for and the steepness and narrowness of descents didn't allow me to let the bike run to 'cash in' on the investment I'd made in the climbs. I cycled more miles today than I ever have; I climbed more feet than ever before as well - and all of that with 15 lbs. of cargo weight that I've never cycled with before. So I guess I shouldn't be surprised that I'm shagged. The good news is that this is the longest day of the whole trip, so I've tackled the toughest.
Just hope my recovery overnight is sufficient to set me up for a tough day through Devon tomorrow...
13 July - Bude to Bridgwater
Miles cycled - 85 (195 cumulative)
Feet climbed - 8280 (15,660 cumulative)
Hours cycling - 9 (16-1/4 cumulative)
Average speed excluding stops - 12.8 mph
Missed turns - 0!
Bottom comfort factor -8
Departed the guest house at 0910, consciously taking it a bit easier that the previous day. A lot of climbing in the first hour, but my legs warmed to it well.
Have noticed a clicking sound that seems to be coming from my right pedal or bottom bracket. Hope it's not something that will reduce drivetrain efficiency and make me work harder than I should!
Lunch in a dodgy pub in South Moulton, but everyone inside ends up being very nice, despite my looking like a twat in all my lycra. After lunch, a five-mile climb up onto Exmoor. I'm standing more in my climbing, not for speed but just to make it a bit easier on the knees. It's also just plain essential for some of the sharp 15%-20% climbs on today's route.
Beautiful thatch-roofed villages on Exmoor, but each has a sharp descent in and sharp climb out. Oh, for a bit more smooth flat... Good weather though, just like yesterday.
The climb between beautiful little Cothelstone and Enmore was a final sting in the tail, having to stand the whole way up, with my heart rate pumping high. Still, was never desperate today like yesterday.
Found B&B quickly, hand washed a load of laundry and had a huge Weatherspoon's dinner of chicken wings, meatball linguine and apple/blackberry crumble!
14 July - Bridgwaterto Redbrook (near Monmouth)
Miles cycled - 80 (275)
Feet climbed - 3600 (19,260)
Hours cycling - 7 (23-1/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 13.6 mph
Missed turns - o
Near misses - 2 (whew)
Bottom comfort factor -7
(Left) knee pain factor -3
The first 19 miles are an easy roll to Cheddar. Really enjoyed the 2.5 mile climb up through Cheddar Gorge. Then needed to settle into some tricky navigation through small lanes and villages.
Another high point was a lovely 5 mile stretch on the SusTrans Bath-Bristol Railway Path - wind-breaking trees on either side, a picturesque steam train station and NO TRAFFIC! All well maintained as well.
Crossing the Severn Bridge was intimidating - so high above such a large body of water. Really more a finger of the ocean pointing inland than a river pointing out.
Worryingly, my left knee was a bit painful on the bike in the afternoon and remains so through the evening. Different from my previous right knee pain -right at the top of the patella, with the pain coming as the knee bends.
Bartender/cook at the pub where I had dinner tonight looks and talks (albeit with English rather than American accent) just like Moe from Simpsons. Wye valley beautiful but seems economically depressed. Weather today was overcast but with no rain - perfect.
15 July - Redbrook to Market Drayton
Miles cycled - 100(375)
Feet climbed - 5360 (24,620)
Hours cycling - 8-1/2 (31-3/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 13.8 mph
Missed turns - 3
Serious missed turns - 1
Closed road inhibiting recovery from serious missed turn - 1
Miles lost - 2
Time lost - 20 minutes
Associated unnecessary hard, steep climbs - 2
Noticing that the planned route was actually 105 miles, I altered a bit, zipping up the A466 and A49 to Leominster (pronounced Lemster). Both Monmouth and Ludlow (where I had a nice 5-salad lunch) are lovely market towns.
The route was refreshingly flat today. Lovely quiet lanes for much of the day's ride. I had a bit of wind, but it was rarely dead-set against me. No rain - 4 straight days!
Aiming to alleviate the left knee issue, I raised my seat 1 cm to reduce the depth of the knee bend required on the pedal stroke.
Ironbridge (scene of my navigation horror) had some interesting Victorian infrastructure (aquaducts and rail bridges) to accompany its huge coal power generation plant.
My host at tonight's B&B is doing my laundry for me and in all other ways going out of her way - VERY good value. Cheap and cheerful buffet dinner at an odd pub in town.
16 July - Market Drayton to Bashall Eaves
Miles cycled - 95 (470)
Feet climbed - 3440 (28,060)
Hours cycling - 8 (39-3/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 13.7 mph
Missed turns - 2
Cost - 4 miles (ouch!)
Remedy - shortcuts on A-roads later in the day (phew!)
Bottom comfort factor - 6
Mainly a flat route today, but with a fair bit of wind in my face most of the way. The day ends with highlands rising all around me, although I can't see the tops because everything is clouded in.
Stayed dry today for the 5th straight day, but forecasts and my eyes tell me that tomorrow will be a big departure from that lucky run. It was cooler today, and I broke out both the arm- and leg-warmers as well as the light jacket.
The morning went well enough, but I was seriously dragging by the time I stopped for my late lunch, and my bottom was hurting for the first time. A big lunch (another Weatherspoons), 2 brufen and a comfy sit down sorted things, though.
Crossed over Manchester Ship Canal (a toll bridge, but my trusty bike and I were exempt). Also rode right by Reebok Stadium. Passed within 8 miles of central Manchester, 2 of Bolton, 4 of Blackburn and 6 of Wigan. The boys will recognise all of those Premiership clubs.
My B&B tonight is at a working farm remote from the village. I'm riding into a village with the owners to get dinner and catching a minicab back, as they're staying out late for pool night at their local.
17 July - Bashall Eaves to Castle Carrock
Miles cycled - 85 (555)
Feet climbed - 6840 (34,900)
Hours cycling - 7-1/2 (47-1/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 12.6 mph
Missed turns - 0
Short cuts - 1
Miles saved - 6.5
Hours in the depths of hell - 2
Bottom comfort factor - 8
Rode into a gale wind and driving, torrential rain while climbing onto and across the fells north of Bashall Eaves. Soaked to the bone within 10 minutes and freezing cold - despite jacket. The wind was in my face all day, but it did ease in strength once I got down off the fells.
Stopped for a late lunch at 13:40 and 50 miles into the ride. The publican built a fire and gave me a tip for a better (read shorter AND flatter) route for the rest of the route, which really saved my skin. The remainder of the ride from there was steady and pretty manageable.
After reaching my second consecutive working farm B&B, had a very good dinner at the appropriately named 'The Weary Sportsman'. Half way there in terms of days and more than half way through the miles.
Encouragingly, my knee felt better today.
18 July - Castle Carrock to Innerleithen
Miles cycled - 70 (625)
Feet climbed - 3600 (38,500)
Hours cycling - 6 (53-1/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 13.7 mph
Missed turns - 0
Closed roads - 1
Oversize vehicles on diversion - too many
Grams of mud on self and bike - 2000 (or so)
Bottom comfort factor - 9
Knee pain factor - 3
I'm in Scotland! It was a rainy day, but thankfully, there was little wind.
Lovely gradual climbs with long gradual descents that really allow the bike to run (at least 3 of these). Best bit of the whole ride so far was the descent from the entrance into the Borders region.
Earlier, the main road was closed due to a mudslide, and I was quite worried about what the implications were for my route. But a friendly motorist at a crossroads stopped to brief me on the situation and how to proceed. Phew!
Several villages/hamlets in which I had planned to have lunch had no pubs or eateries, so, becoming increasingly hungry and concerned, I barely reached a pub at 50 miles for lunch bang on 14:00.
It was a short day - I arrived at guest house at 16:00. Did lots of laundry, which owners dried in their airing cupboard. My rain cover for the back bag is less than perfect, so I've bought plastic bags to wrap my clothes in (as P told me to do in the first place).
Great meal at the guest house. Met and dined with three other cyclists down from Edinburgh, one of whom had done the End-to-End in May.
Nice call from R&J and texts from Geoff and Mads to keep spirits up.
19 July - Innerleithen to Bankfoot
Miles cycled - 87 (712)
Feet climbed - 4340 (42,840)
Hours cycling - 8 (61-1/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 12.9 mph
Missed turns - 0
Closed roads - 0
Closed cycling paths over Firth of Forth Bridge - 1
Detour cost - only 10 minutes
Depressing suburban villages - 2
Bottom comfort factor - 9
Knee pain factor - 1
I had a couple of trying moments today: a40-minute downpour as I approached and skirted Edinburgh and riding 15 miles into the teeth of a stiff headwind (while also on a sugar low) once on the other side of the firth.
The firth crossing was, like crossing the Severn, a reminder of the enormity of nature. Although the bridges themselves are obviously man-made, the volume of water over which they cross and the strength of the wind that whips them are reminders of the greater canvas on which they are but specks.
I blew through without lunch today, just loading up on cereal bars and, latterly, crisps.
It all turned right as I climbed out of Letts O'Muckhardt toward Dunning. This took me outof the wind. At the top of the climb and through much of the fantastic descent, I had great views of the Cairngorms to the north.
I was weary but in good spirits as I arrived in sunshine at the Bankfoot Inn. I had a lovely meal in the restaurant downstairs before turning in.
20 July - Bankfoot t0 Braemar
Miles cycled - 48 (760)
Feet climbed - 3020 (45,860)
Hours cycling - 5 (66-1/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 11.3 mph
Missed turns - 0 (there are very few turns to make now!)
Kept room keys - 1 (oops)
Bottom comfort factor - 8
Knee pain factor - 2
It was a short day today, which is just as well. Had a very easy initial 12-1/2 miles, then turned north into a vicious headwind that pounded me for the rest of the day.
Had lunch in Spittal of Glenshee before heading up past the ski centre (the highest point on my End-to-End ride) and then down into Braemar. On the long steep climb, the wind was accompanied by a slashing rainstorm. On the long descent, the rain gave way, but at several points, I needed to pedal the bike forward in low gear just to keep the bike moving into the wind.
Still, arrived just past 15:00 at my B&B and enjoyed a relaxing late afternoon watching the end of the British Open, where the golfers too were battling the wind. Had a non-descript meal at the hotel in town. Both Braemar and the surrounding country are beautiful. I just wish the weather were a bit better so that I could enjoy it even more.
Had I been programmed to ride much further today, I'm not sure how I'd have done it. I found the going into the wind very tough. The forecast calls for the wind to lighten and change direction for tomorrow. If it doesn't, I'll have a hard time completing the planned 85 miles...
21 July - Braemar to Inverness
Miles cycled - 82 (842)
Feet climbed - 5240 (51,100)
Hours cycling - 7 (73-1/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 12.7 mph
Bottom comfort factor - 8
Knee pain factor - 3
Ahhhh. Best weather day so far. Sunny and warm, with the wind down to just a puff.
Beautiful views throughout the mountains, including views backward towards some north-facing slopes that I swear still had snow at their tops.
Four climbs, one of which was a killer: out of Cockbridge (past another ski centre) toward Tomitoul, there is a 20%+ gradient that then gives way to a long drag with two sizable 15% chunks in it. Not ideal on a compact chain ring, but I managed. It did take its toll on my legs though - sore knees and dead legs tonight. Hoping for good recovery overnight for long day tomorrow.
Quite impressed with Inverness - compact and attractive, with the river at its heart. Nice dinner overlooking said river.
My HR sensor now seems to be dead, but the rest of the computer is working fine.
22 July - Inverness to Bettyhill
Miles cycled - 99 (941)
Feet climbed - 3300 (54,400)
Hours cycling - 7 (80-1/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 14.9 mph
Bottom comfort factor - 6
Knee pain factor - 2
Found out early on that my chosen route option was actually 10 miles longer than the stated distance. But I also learned today that the wind can be your FRIEND as well as your enemy. It was at my back and pretty strong for most of the day - magic!
Flew all the way to Evanton and then climbed up and over then down into Bonar Bridge. Second climb was bigger, from Invernan up to Crask - with lunch along the way in Lairg. Needed that lunch break, as bottom was sore and body was feeling something short of strong.
Having completed the climb to Crask after lunch, I then revelled in a 30-mile(!) descent (okay, much of it was barely downhill, but that plus the wind made it extremely easy riding) that took me to within a few miles of Bettyhill. All through gorgeous scenery. This was the best part of the End-to-End.
Bettyhill sits above two big, beautiful beaches onthe North Sea. Nice dinner in the hotel restaurant and banter with a couple of other guests, who can't believe I've come from Lands End.
23 July Bettyhill to John O'Groats & John-O'Groats to Thurso
Miles cycled - 69 (1010)
Feet climbed - 2980 (57,380)
Hours cycling - 5 (85-1/4)
Average speed excluding stops - 14.4 mph
Bottom comfort factor - 4
Knee pain factor - 1
I've done it!
I tried my second pair of cycling shorts today for the first time. My bottom complained, so I added the first pair as a second layer after 40 miles!
The terrain was quite up and down, especially between Bettyhill and Thurso - much like Cornwall.
Even today's relatively short ride was a challenge, showing that the fatigue has accumulated over the trip - legs felt okay, but back and bum sore.
After photos and lunch at John O'Groats, made my way back to Thurso and checked into B&B. Time for a stroll around town. Even had a beer with my mediocre dinner at a hotel.
24 July
First train departed Thurso at 06:50. This and the subsequent ones from Inverness and Edinburgh all went well - got the bike in no problems.
J picked me up at Kings Cross and delivered me home before 20:30 - bike and rider in one piece. Great to be back. P and the boys have hung up a big map of Britain on which they've charted my progress. Looks like a bloody big trip laid out all together like that!
The Bike
A big well done to my Specialized Roubaix bike. Not a single mechanical problem the entire trip. I never even had to top up the tyre pressure, let alone use my spare tyre, 4 spare tubes, 2 spare spokes or my chain tool.
My only maintenance was to wipe off and re-lube the chain every couple of days.
The Gear
Aside from a spare tube, a multi-tool and tyre levers, which I carried, as I always do, in my tiny under-saddle bag, all the rest of my gear was either in a Topeak bag on a matching Topeak seatpost rack or in an Altura bar bag on front.
Here's what I carried:
(Wear) - 1 shorts, 1 jersey, 1 base layer gloves, helmet, glasses, 1 socks, cycling shoes, HRM
(On bike) - 2 bottles, pump, 1 tube, multi-tool, leathermans, repair kit, tyre levers, 2 spare spokes
(In Bags)
- 1 rain cover for bag
- 1 shorts
- arm warmers
- leg warmers
- 1 medium jacket
- 1 light jacket
- 1 clam diggers (for evenings)
- 1 shirt (for evening)
- 2 pr socks
- 1 pr overshoes
- Navigation documents (in waterproof case)
- Phone + charger
- Camera + charger
- 1 lock
- Toiletries (tbrush, tpaste, razor, assos cream, glucosamine, fish oil, brufen, deodorant, suncream)
- 1 tyre
- 3 tubes
- Chain lube
- Maintenance kit
The items in red above were critical for the whole second half of the trip, and they only entered my packing list 2 days before I started!
Navigation
The CTC directions and highlighted atlas pages worked great. The bar bag I used had a map case on its lid, so the directions and map were always right there in front of me. Since it was waterproof, they stayed dry as well.
These resources were sufficient in about 80% of cases, but in the other 20%, I had to resort to the very un-male practice of asking people for directions / help to make sure I was heading the right way! Don't let your pride come between you and your destination.
Accomodation
I set up my accomodation for every night in advance. Each day, about 2 hours before arrival, I would ring ahead to check that the arrival time was okay and to ask them for specific directions to their place. This worked really well, and they appreciated the call as well. Here's where I stayed. I can recommend each of them:
1 - Bude: Tee-Side Guest House, 2 Burn View, BUDE, Cornwall, EX23 8BY; 01288 352 351
2
- Bridgwater: Admirals Rest Guest House, 5 Taunton Road, BRIDGWATER,
Somerset TA6 3LW; 01278 458 580
3 - Monmouth: Tresco, Redbrook, MONMOUTH, Monmouthshire, NP25 4LY; 01600 712 325
4 - MARKET DRAYTON: Crofton B&B, 80 Rowan Road; 01630 655 484
5 - BASHALL EAVES: HODDER
HOUSE B&B Tel:
01254 826328
6
- CASTLE CARROCK: Gelt Hall Farm, Castle Carrock,
Brampton, Cumbria, CA8 9LT - 01228 670260
7
- INNERLEITHEN: Caddon View Guest House, 14 Pim
Road, INNERLEITHEN, 01896 830 208
8 - BANKFOOT: The Bankfoot Inn, Main Street, Bankfoot, Perthshire PH1 4AB; 01738 787 243
9
- BRAEMAR: Morningside, Kindrochit Drive, BRAEMAR,
Aberdeenshire; 01339 741 370
10 - INVERNESS:Westbourne 50 Huntly St, Inverness, Inverness-Shire, IV3 5HS - 01463 220700
11 - BETTYHILL: Bettyhill Hotel, Sutherland KW14 7SP, 01641 521 352
12 - THURSO: Waterside House, 3 Janet Street, Thurso, Caithness KW14 7AR, Tel (01847) 894751, email : waterside.house-support@btinternet.com
Life lesson
Some things (and most big or difficult things) take time and persistent effort. This in turn takes patience and willingness to defer the ultimate gratification of successful completion while you put in the work to bring it about. In these cases, frantic, explosive effort is not only useless but quite probably conterproductive.
J pointed this out to me in the context of canal boating. When boating with him a few years ago, I was on shore pushing the bow of the boat out into the stream from the bank. I was pushing with all my might, straining my legs and back to get this huge thing to move quickly.
J showed me that no amount of force I was capable of applying would get that canal boat to move quickly. He added, though, that since it was virtually frictionless in the water, the steady application of a bit of force for a longer period (say 10 seconds) would, as sure as anything, get it to move eventually. (Refer to you F=ma lesson from elementary physics.) Throwing out my back or popping knee was useless. Just lean against it for a bit.
Each leg of this ride was a bit like that, as was the overall ride itself. Although I always enjoyed the scenery and the action of cycling through the countyside, I ofter found myself just wanted to be at the next destination. Consciously or not, I would increase my work rate and (marginally) increase my rate of advance. But the increased work taxed my body and was unsustainable. And with the lengths involved in this trip, the bursts made no grade impact on my arrival time at any intermediate or the ultimate destination.
Patience is not a virtue that resides happily in me, but when I could harness it and simply relax into a smooth spin of the pedals (the biking equivalent to leaning against that canal boat) recognising that 7-8 hours of consistent cycling is what it takes to complete each day, I had a more enjoyable ride. And I also kept myself in fighting shape for the following days, rather than breaking my body. Patience to defer gratification and persistence in applying myself to the matter at hand brought the result.
This isn't to discount the value of decisive action. On the road, I several times altered the route, took addional water / food stops (or in one case blew through lunch), but none of this changed the fact that steady work was needed to reach the destination.
Good luck on your own End-to-End!
what kind of seat did you use,when I did the reivers and ctoc all in one we all had trouble with blisters and soreness on our behinds.
Posted by: billy lisle | 02/10/2009 at 16:47
I used the seat that came with my Specialized Roubaix when I got it the year before. I'd never had problems with the seat on other rides, so decided not to try anything new for the big one. I also used relatively thin-padded shorts rather than getting thicker ones like Assos Mille. Finally I did use Assos Cream every day, which among other things acts as a lubricant to cut down on abrasion.
Posted by: Doug | 07/10/2009 at 19:36
we are doing the ride in june 2010 and fancy useing a 4 berth camper van as a back up and somewhere to sleep. My question is do you know where we can rent one cheaply as they all seem to be expensive to hire or someone who will let us use it for the publicity .
Posted by: billy lisle | 04/12/2009 at 17:37